Kashan & Qom


The area around Kashan is rather desolate. I can see why there are lots of military bases and research facilities. Basically just piles of sand everywhere. The city itself is the same as any other I’ve seen.

Arrived at the guest house. Deserted. The guy showed up though so that’s a nice thing. Nice big room, nice warm shower.

Headed to Fin Garden/Baths which were very pretty. Only had half an hour as they were closing for the evening, but it was plenty of time.


Woke up too early because my pillow was too big.

Saw two very beautiful old houses (bordering on palaces, I’d say). First was Tabatabaei House.

Second was Abassi house, of which the latter was my favourite - built downwards mostly for cool-ness and just really pretty and ornate.

Then visited the gorgeous Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse.

A very nice way to end the ‘traditional’ part of the tour before heading back up to Tehran/The Caspian.

Swung by Agha Bozorg mosque then lazed about at Majid’s hotel before lunch, after which we were back on the road for Tehran, via Qom.

The first thing to notice about Qom is massive monorail being built - about 12km in a straight line, I believe - connecting the two shrines. We were in town to see the Fatima Masumeh Shrine. It’s a very busy place, and very hot. The Shrine was amazing with it’s mirror hall and gold and silver shrine, but it smelt like feet.

Continued on, stopping at a toll road for a bathroom break and a cold drink. Lots of people stop to have some tea at these sorts of places. I don’t know why, they are loud, smelly and dirty. There was ‘war music’ playing blaring out of a speaker, due to the upcoming Iraq/Iran war anniversary (start, finish, truce? no idea)

Arrive in Tehran to a beautiful orange full moon low on the horizon.